Not Fade Away

 2022 coming to an end. Battlefield  abides.

Best Wishes for the Holidays & 2023

The Wright Stuff

Former Tyne & Wear Council offices on Sandyford Road

A friend once invited me one evening to meet a man who had shook hands with Frank Lloyd Wright. We met up at the Jesmond Station besides the former Scottish Life office complex on Sandyford Road, just then being converted into apartments. As we chatted the man who had met Wright pointed at the 'skinned' block opposite now just a series of reinforced concrete beams and vertical supports netting the setting sun. 'I just wish they would leave it like that'. 

I could see his point. What had been a clasp built box of unflinching mediocrity was now a Constructivist sculpture of elegance and poise making a weave pattern against the glowing sunset. It didn't stay that way but what it became was somewhat more aesthetically pleasing – discrete anyway.

That block and the associated tower block facing onto Sandyford Road was last occupied by the long gone Tyne & Wear Council.* For some reason developing the tower block was delayed – Covid? – but has finally begun. Before it disappears under some newer scheme of out facing covering, we can enjoy the sight of perhaps one of the best sculptures in the city.

This renovation leaves the Northumbria University's Claude Gibb building  close by as the least interesting tower block for miles a round.

Northumbria University's mediocre Claude Gibb tower block

 

*The history of the Tyne & Wear Council is here:

Those who knew claimed the Tyne & Wear Council had a more interventionist and imaginative policy outlook than those local councils that replaced it. Maybe that was the intention behind dissolution? 

Goodbye Ouseburn

Ouseburn Quays

It was always on the cards. Someone in a white Porsche would spot a 'market opportunity' arising from the 'chic' of urban lifestyle that arose in London's Dockland's, spread out to other places with areas of post industrial dereliction and produce expensive ways for the seriously better off to indulge their brush with edgy metropolitan actualité or, in theory, 'vibrant' arty people. What was once a cheap place no one else wished to live, a chance for people without money to get into interesting spaces – sometimes through squatting – became très à la mode, all over the world. 

Gradually this form of 'poverty entrepreneurship' made otherwise uninhabitable parts of defunct businesses or industry attractively picturesque if one had a creative eye attracted attention. Other places soon became a magnet particularly for the young and child free penniless – craftspeople, performance arts, makers or simply drop outs. A waterfront helped. That adventurism finally acquired what one former hippie turned billionaire describes as 'a financial character' – in spades.

In his autobiography Dancing Edge, Derek Jarman charts his own pioneering time in the abandoned Butler's Wharf, London in the 70s – a mini Warholian factory of his own – a creative experiment to match his painting and films, at once invigorating and sad; because 'market opportunities' evicted Jarman and others from such spaces, to be taken by the very wealthy wanting to pose as Bohemians in one of the most expensive cities in the world.

That was bad enough. But what attracted Jarman and others to urban dereliction paved the way to a outbreak of hideously corporate fakery. 'Loft living', once as uncomfortable as it sounds, afterwards recreated with full insulation, security cameras and double glazing.

Lower Ouseburn – corporate space

Ouseburn, at least where the most prominent part of the valley meets the Tyne, is being anaesthetised, neutered and controlled. The sight that made a visiting friend decades ago express his own liking for urban dereliction – and the creative possibilities of such were then so evident, is now the definition of Suburban bland. It is almost as if someone has designed and built a film set for those masters of alienation, Michelangelo Antonioni or Ingmar Bergman.

So, goodbye Ouseburn. It was fun while it lasted. Photo gallery here. (off site link)

Secluded St Ann's

 

St Ann's, Quayside

On the off chance I walked to look at St Ann's church on the Quayside. On the way I stumbled across St Ann's Close. It's an impressive example – and what's more, successful – example of post War architecture at scale; a planned estate of multi-storey living that in many other places didn't work, mostly discredited and demolished. Here however, it seems to have become a secret corner high above Ouseburn, hidden among trees.

What is inspiring has been the way the overall concept has been preserved and the clearly high building standards exe

mplified in fine brickwork, complete spall-free concrete, and intriguing walkways over head, linking angled housing blocks. The usual concomitants of other 'problem estates' – burnt rubbish, fly tipped domestic items and plain old household waste are entirely absent here.

In one corner an older survival from the 19th cum early 20th century has been artfully integrated into a recent scheme of apartments that would grace any city.

The trees planted at the time of building St Ann's Close have grown well. There is a sense of sylvan that also is rare in large scale developments. The whole plan seems to have produced in the fifty or so years since completion, a visionary harmony. That is something to celebrate and learn from.

Photo gallery here (off site link)

 

Child's play

Day time television presenter, Adrian Child's writes to celebrate the simple – in reality very complex – pleasure of those small local parks that have suddenly come to the fore after the pandemic, when access to 'out of doors' saved the mental health of millions. That's not just my opinion.

We need to preserve and extend the role of green space in the urbanised country the United Kingdom, particularly England , has become. Instead of building over everywhere, some of those former commercial and industrial spaces should be turned into green space, even if they serve just to separate transport links from housing, or short cuts from 'the shops' to home.

Mr Child's is right. Read more here. (off site link)

Just a fruitful tree

 This plum tree stands beside the East Coast Mainline rail bridge on the border of Heaton and Byker.

Was it planted? Did it just grow from a dropped plum stone? The latter seems much more likely; it is difficult to think anyone would have planted a plum deliberately on such a nearly non-existent patch of dirt that must always have been wretched and still is frequently fly tipped or used as a rubbish tip for cans and food wrappings. Despite this inauspicious background it always catches the eye about now every year.

It produces a huge crop of small yellow plums each summer.

This year I tried one*. It was delicious! Good for eating or jam making.

* Not recommended. Always wash fruit picked yourself.

Deepest Ouseburn 2022

 It is still possible to 'get away' even in a big city. Never has that detail been more important as our present circumstances make travel problematic. The extra benefit has been the role that green spaces have played in keeping many people sane – the daily walk with or without a companion that brings relief and balance to our lives.

The Ouseburn winding through the city provides a variety of experience – entertainment and refreshments, encounters with wildlife and opportunities, recreation, relaxation or just moderate exercise that strolling provides. Just here and there, something close to wilderness ...

A juvenile (or moulting adult) Dipper and then a 'guided' Kingfisher like a blue bolt, fast and level, hurrying to get to another perch. Avoid getting stung by plants!

Ouseburn in High Summer

 I still find it hard sometimes when following the course of the Ouseburn in the Vale that I am actually in a large, thriving and busy city.

Here is a photographic record of one such journey on a perfect evening in high summer. (opens in new window)

 Oh, and a special guest appearance!

Vista Restored

 The deeply unlovely former Commercial Union building that was imposed on Pilgrim Street for forty something years is now a heap of graded rubble. It did have a late and honourable existence as a hub for many 'alternative' organisations and art galleries, and, in this iteration at least, was a generous and useful space for organisations and collectives that famously contribute much for very little financially. What became of these when the building was closed I do not know in any detail.

The great thing about such architecture is that it comes down easily. A similar eyesore on Sandyford Road, the old Tyne and Wear Council offices built using the discredited clasp system, is also in process of moving in the direction of clinker. That leaves one other Truly Ugly 20th Century Buildings on the author's list to be dealt with ... Hopefully.

What made the former Commercial Union offices stand out was that it stood out. Literally. The idea, as explained to me by an architect, was that these air grabbing buildings were conceived to block vistas. They acted like a screen to hide views down important streets. Why I can but guess. The only other example of this 'innovation' for urban spaces, the former Norwich Union building on Collingwood Street went to recycling years ago. The consequence was immediate and welcome. Space and light once more, enhancing neighbouring, older buildings, instead of detracting from them. Hard and soft landscaping and refurbishment of the Stephenson Memorial has given back something to the city. I hope the same can be said for Pilgrim Street. One immediate gain has been the view from Northumberland Street; distant trees and the unmistakeable spire of Saint John's, Gateshead Fell.

The site when cleared is proposed for a huge office complex to stand alongside so many others around the city who have either been abandoned or never had a serious use since completion. Why not convert these into apartments? Why not indeed when so much Green Belt waits to be turned into profit?

Watch it come down!

Lots more to do

The Grade II Listed facade of the former North East Electricity Board is to be preserved

Fruitful

Blossom time in Lower Ouseburn April 2022

Nestled between huge and over spanning bridges, Lower Ouseburn hosts wildlife and domesticated animals in the hugely popular City Farm.

Recently serious maintenance work has been undertaken on one of the developing projects, an orchard of fruit trees. Planted few years ago these were pretty difficult to locate. Earlier work on boardwalks over some splashy places had become dilapidated and numerous other plants and herbs had grown to obscure the fruit trees. Now a lot has been carried out. New gates, wheelchair friendly paths, and much clearing away of overgrowth to reveal the steadily developing fruit trees are still there and thriving. Two ponds replace one, and fencing makes it possible for grazing to occur, that will, in turn, suppress the more aggressive plants and allow an more meadow like flora to develop.

Storms rent through the Lower Ouseburn and many trees, shallow rooted on that thin soil produced by in-filling in the 19th century, were brought down. But most survive and already plants are taking advantage of the opening up to sunlight clearance by Nature's Hand has produced.

Photo gallery here. (off site link)

Eat Sandyford

At the height of the Pandemic I feared that the growing number of places to eat and socialise that has become a defining feature of Sandyford might not survive.  It's pleasing to see all have – diversifying by offering take out services. The variety of newly opened and continuing cafés, 'bistro' and restaurants have added something to the whole area.

Here's a few. If I left your favourite out then watch for a follow up when the evenings are longer and the warmer weather comes along.

The importance of small things

 Following three storms inside a week, a pause to admire the fortitude of nature:

The moods of nature have their counterpart in ours. These past years have created stress and strain on all of us, some more deeply than others. How many times have I read or heard that access to the outdoors 'saved' many from depression, anxiety and loss? What once seemed fanciful or important to a few is now acknowledged as having much wider significance: We need green space for our health and well being.

Today news of a campaign being mounted to place this need much more centrally in our futures mapped in government plans for social advance:

UK wildlife campaigners call for legal right to access nature for all

Activists say one in three people in England cannot access green spaces, with the poorest most deprived

"Communities and NGOS would have the ability to take local authorities to court if they failed to provide healthy green space, under plans set out by more than 60 nature, planning, health and equality organisations. They argue that despite the fact there is strong evidence that accessible, nature-rich spaces boost our physical and mental wellbeing, and reduce mortality, one in three people in England cannot access nature near their home."

Those of us who understand this must make sure our local representatives and council get the message: Green space is not just a development opportunity in waiting.

Read the whole article here.

Development opportunity

Cut backs: Flowering cherries chain sawed by order of the City Council 2020

England’s poor urban areas have fewest protected green spaces, analysis finds

CPRE urges ministers to promise ‘equivalent of a national park for every neighbourhood’

(from The Guardian 2nd February 2022) Link to article in text below. 

The CPRE has very good point. Read more here.

The City Stadium (a.k.a. Battlefield, so-called since last century Newcastle City planners wanted to turn this precious green place in to parking for projected 'much needed' (sic) offices) qualifies.

From the article:

Local green spaces are small parcels of land, close to where people live, that are demonstrably special to their community, for reasons that can include their beauty, historic significance, recreational value, tranquility or richness of wildlife. ...

Crispin Truman, the Chief Executive of CPRE, said: "This is a solution to levelling up that has been hiding in plain sight; a planning super power in the hands of ordinary people,. All that people have to prove is they use and value the land fr it to be protected like it is a national park. ...

What might be helpful is a Council that doesn't ignore, finagle, deceive, scheme and pat itself on the back at the same time.

Amen Arwen

Ouseburn above the Culvert 11th December 2022

Storm Arwen created havoc in the weeks before Christmas leaving death and destruction over several northern European countries. Damage around and about Battlefield as I saw was mostly limited to fallen roof tiles and, particularly, up rooted trees. Some along the steep sides of the Ouseburn culvert beside 'battlefield' came down blocking paths that took time to clear; many busier places had to be attended to first.

It may look sad to see some fine trees blown over; years of growth swept away and gaps opened where there was once a view enhanced by a tracery in winter or foliage in summer. But that's just us. Nature has a few tricks up her sleeve and these events, gales blowing down trees are perhaps a way of bringing about change. For these gaps and openings in the canopy will allow an understory, less towering vegetation, more earth bound, to develop and in turn have one of those beautiful circular relationships that Nature brings. More sunlight, more plants. More plants, more insect life. More insect life, more birds. The fallen wood, left in place, decays naturally and becomes a home for more life forms such as fungi and wood boring insects.

A passer by I met on my visit to watch the tree surgeons at work told me some of the neatly sliced up wood had been recovered by a local wood worker who intends to make furniture from it.

In Nature nothing is wasted. Photographic slideshow here (off site link).